📝 About This Recipe
Inspired by the legendary California original, this ash-ripened goat cheese is a masterpiece of American creamery craft. It features a distinctive ribbon of vegetable ash running through its center and a bloomy Geotrichum rind that develops a complex, floral tang as it matures. Over time, the paste transforms from a crumbly, lemony core to a luscious, translucent creamline just beneath the surface.
🥗 Ingredients
The Milk & Cultures
- 2 gallons Fresh Goat Milk (Pasteurized, not ultra-pasteurized; farm-fresh is best)
- 1/4 teaspoon Mesophilic Starter Culture (MA 11 or Florica Danica) (Provides the buttery, lactic base)
- 1/16 teaspoon Geotrichum Candidum (The yeast responsible for the brainy rind texture)
- 1/16 teaspoon Penicillium Candidum (For the classic white bloomy coat)
Coagulation & Flavor
- 4 drops Liquid Animal or Vegetable Rennet (Diluted in 1/4 cup non-chlorinated water)
- 1/4 teaspoon Calcium Chloride (Diluted in 1/4 cup water; essential for pasteurized milk)
- 2 tablespoons Cheese Salt (Non-iodized) (Fine grain for even absorption)
The Signature Finish
- 1 tablespoon Food-Grade Vegetable Ash (Used for the center line and exterior coating)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
In a large stainless steel pot, slowly heat the goat milk to 72°F (22°C). This low-temperature start is crucial for the delicate lactic set.
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2
Sprinkle the Mesophilic starter, Geotrichum Candidum, and Penicillium Candidum over the surface of the milk. Let it rehydrate for 5 minutes, then stir gently using an up-and-down motion.
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3
Add the diluted Calcium Chloride and the diluted Rennet. Stir for 1 minute, then 'still' the milk with your ladle. Cover and let sit at room temperature (around 70-72°F) for 18 to 24 hours.
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4
Once a 'clean break' is achieved and a thin layer of whey sits atop the curd, gently ladle the curd into a cheesecloth-lined colander. Tie the corners and hang to drain for 6-12 hours until it reaches a thick, dough-like consistency.
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5
Transfer the drained curd to a bowl. Mix in the salt thoroughly. This stops the acidification process and enhances flavor.
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6
To form the 'Fog' line, fill two cylindrical cheese molds halfway with the salted curd. Smooth the surface and sprinkle a thin, even layer of vegetable ash over the curd using a fine mesh sieve.
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7
Fill the rest of the molds with the remaining curd, pressing down gently to ensure the ash layer stays trapped in the center. Let the wheels sit in the molds for another 12 hours at room temperature to firm up.
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8
Carefully remove the wheels from the molds. Lightly dust the entire exterior of the cheese with more vegetable ash until it is a ghostly grey color.
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9
Place the wheels on a draining mat inside a ripening box (a plastic container with a lid). Move to a 'cheese cave' or cool area kept at 50-55°F (10-13°C) with 85-90% humidity.
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10
Flip the cheese daily and wipe away any excess moisture from the box. Within 7-10 days, white mold will begin to grow through the ash, turning the cheese from grey to snowy white.
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11
Continue aging for a total of 3 weeks. As the cheese matures, the area just under the rind will begin to soften into a 'creamline' (proteolysis).
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use non-chlorinated water for diluting rennet, as chlorine can kill the enzymes. If your rind looks 'fuzzy' or blue, the humidity is too high; crack the lid of your ripening box for a few hours. Ensure your vegetable ash is food-grade; it neutralizes the surface pH, which allows the white mold to thrive. Don't rush the draining process; if the curd is too wet, the ash will bleed and the cheese may collapse. For a sharper flavor, allow the cheese to age up to 5 weeks, though the center will become significantly firmer.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve at room temperature to allow the creamline to become properly gooey. Pair with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Sparkling Wine to cut through the richness. Accompany with honeycomb and fresh mission figs for a classic sweet-and-savory balance. Spread onto a toasted walnut baguette with a drizzle of truffle honey. Serve alongside Marcona almonds and thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma.