Ayam Betutu: The Soul of Bali in a Spiced Roast Chicken

🌍 Cuisine: Indonesian
🏷️ Category: Main Course
⏱️ Prep: 45 minutes
🍳 Cook: 90-120 minutes
👥 Serves: 4-6 servings

📝 About This Recipe

Transport your senses to the heart of Ubud with Ayam Betutu, a legendary Balinese ceremonial dish renowned for its intense depth of flavor. This slow-cooked masterpiece features a whole chicken rubbed with 'Base Genep'—a complex spice paste of galangal, turmeric, ginger, and aromatic shrimp paste. Traditionally smoked in rice husks, this home-kitchen version ensures a succulent, fall-off-the-bone texture and a rich, spicy profile that defines Indonesian hospitality.

🥗 Ingredients

Main Ingredients

  • 1 piece Whole Chicken (approx. 1.2 - 1.5 kg, cleaned and patted dry)
  • 100 grams Cassava leaves or Spinach (boiled until tender, squeezed dry)
  • 2-3 large sheets Banana leaves (softened over a flame for wrapping)
  • 2 tablespoons Lime juice (freshly squeezed)
  • 1 teaspoon Salt (for initial rub)

Base Genep (Spice Paste)

  • 15 pieces Shallots (peeled and roughly chopped)
  • 7 cloves Garlic (peeled)
  • 5 pieces Red Chilies (deseeded for less heat if preferred)
  • 3-5 pieces Bird's Eye Chilies (adjust to spice tolerance)
  • 4 pieces Candlenuts (toasted)
  • 3 cm Turmeric (fresh, peeled and sliced)
  • 3 cm Ginger (fresh, peeled and sliced)
  • 4 cm Galangal (fresh, sliced)
  • 2 cm Kencur (Aromatic Ginger) (optional but highly recommended for authenticity)
  • 1 teaspoon Shrimp Paste (Terasi) (toasted)
  • 1 tablespoon Coriander Seeds (toasted)
  • 3 stalks Lemongrass (white parts only, finely sliced)
  • 4 tablespoons Coconut Oil (for sautéing)

👨‍🍳 Instructions

  1. 1

    Prepare the chicken by rubbing it inside and out with lime juice and 1 teaspoon of salt. Let it marinate for 15-20 minutes to neutralize any odors and tenderize the meat.

  2. 2

    In a food processor or mortar and pestle, grind the shallots, garlic, chilies, candlenuts, turmeric, ginger, galangal, kencur, shrimp paste, and coriander seeds into a fine, fragrant paste.

  3. 3

    Heat coconut oil in a wok or large frying pan over medium heat. Sauté the spice paste and the sliced lemongrass until the oil starts to separate and the aroma fills the kitchen (about 5-7 minutes).

  4. 4

    Divide the sautéed spice paste into two portions. Take one portion and mix it thoroughly with the boiled cassava leaves or spinach.

  5. 5

    Stuff the spiced greens into the cavity of the chicken. Secure the opening with a toothpick or kitchen twine to keep the stuffing inside during cooking.

  6. 6

    Rub the remaining half of the spice paste all over the exterior of the chicken, ensuring every crevice is coated for maximum flavor.

  7. 7

    Lay out the softened banana leaves. Place the chicken in the center and wrap it tightly, securing the ends with toothpicks. For extra moisture retention, you can wrap a layer of aluminum foil over the banana leaves.

  8. 8

    Preheat your oven to 160°C (320°F). Place the wrapped chicken in a roasting pan or a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven.

  9. 9

    Roast the chicken in the oven for approximately 90 minutes to 2 hours. The low temperature ensures the spices penetrate the bone and the meat becomes incredibly tender.

  10. 10

    Carefully remove the chicken from the oven. Let it rest inside the wrapping for 10 minutes before opening to allow the juices to redistribute.

  11. 11

    Unwrap the chicken, revealing the aromatic steam. Transfer to a serving platter and pour any accumulated juices from the banana leaf over the meat.

💡 Chef's Tips

For the most authentic flavor, use 'Ayam Kampung' (free-range/heritage chicken) which has a firmer texture and richer taste. If you don't have banana leaves, parchment paper followed by foil works as a substitute, though you'll miss the subtle tea-like aroma of the leaf. Don't rush the sautéing of the spice paste; 'matang' (fully cooked) paste should be dark golden and fragrant, never raw-smelling. Toasting the candlenuts and shrimp paste is a non-negotiable step to unlock the deep, nutty, and savory base notes of the dish. If you have time, marinate the chicken in the spice paste overnight in the fridge before roasting the next day.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

Serve with hot steamed jasmine rice or traditional red rice. Accompany with 'Sambal Matah' (Balinese raw lemongrass and shallot relish) for a refreshing acidic contrast. Include a side of 'Plecing Kangkung' (water spinach with spicy tomato sambal). Add a handful of fried peanuts and crispy fried shallots on top for essential crunch. A cold glass of iced lemongrass tea or a crisp lager pairs beautifully with the heat of the spices.