📝 About This Recipe
A cornerstone of Roman 'Quinto Quarto' (offal) cuisine, this legendary pasta dish features the small intestine of a milk-fed calf, still containing its mother's milk which transforms into a creamy, tangy cheese-like sauce when cooked. Simmered in a rich tomato base, the pajata offers a unique silky texture and profound depth that defines the Testaccio district of Rome. It is a bold, rustic masterpiece that balances the sweetness of the milk with the bite of Pecorino Romano and the heat of chili flakes.
🥗 Ingredients
The Pajata
- 800 grams Pajata (Milk-fed calf small intestine) (cleaned, but with the chyme/milk left inside)
- 1 roll Kitchen twine (for tying the intestine into rings)
- 2 tablespoons White wine vinegar (for washing the exterior)
The Soffritto and Sauce
- 3 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil (high quality)
- 50 grams Guanciale (finely diced to render fat)
- 1 small Yellow onion (finely minced)
- 1 piece Celery stalk (finely minced)
- 1 small Carrot (finely minced)
- 2 pieces Garlic cloves (peeled and smashed)
- 1/2 cup Dry white wine (like Frascati) (at room temperature)
- 800 grams Canned peeled tomatoes (San Marzano) (crushed by hand)
- 200 grams Tomato purée (Passata) (for extra silkiness)
- 1/2 teaspoon Red chili flakes (to taste)
- 2 pieces Cloves (whole)
- to taste Salt and Black Pepper (be cautious with salt)
Pasta and Finishing
- 400 grams Rigatoni pasta (high-quality bronze-die dried pasta)
- 100 grams Pecorino Romano DOP (freshly grated)
- 1 handful Fresh parsley (finely chopped for garnish)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Prepare the pajata by gently rinsing the exterior under cold water mixed with a little vinegar. Do not let water enter the inside of the tube, as the partially digested milk (chyme) is the essential flavoring agent.
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2
Cut the pajata into segments of about 20-25 cm. Fold each segment into a small circle (like a donut) and tie the ends together with kitchen twine to secure the milk inside during cooking.
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3
In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or earthenware pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced guanciale and cook until the fat has rendered and the bits are golden.
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4
Add the minced onion, carrot, and celery (the soffritto) along with the smashed garlic and chili flakes. Sauté for 8-10 minutes until the vegetables are soft and translucent.
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5
Add the prepared pajata rings to the pot. Brown them gently for about 5 minutes, turning them carefully so they don't tear.
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6
Deglaze the pan with the white wine, scraping the bottom to release any caramelized bits. Allow the alcohol to evaporate completely (about 3-4 minutes).
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7
Stir in the hand-crushed San Marzano tomatoes, the passata, and the whole cloves. Season with a pinch of salt (remembering the Pecorino and guanciale are salty).
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8
Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot partially, and let it simmer very gently for at least 1.5 to 2 hours. The sauce should be thick and dark red, and the pajata should be tender.
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9
About 15 minutes before the sauce is finished, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
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10
Cook the rigatoni until 'al dente' according to the package instructions (usually 1-2 minutes less than the full time).
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11
While the pasta cooks, remove the cloves and the garlic cloves from the sauce. Taste the sauce and adjust salt and pepper if necessary.
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12
Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of the starchy pasta water. Toss the rigatoni directly into the sauce pot.
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13
Stir the pasta and sauce over medium heat for 1 minute, adding a splash of pasta water if the sauce needs loosening to coat every tube of rigatoni.
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14
Remove from heat and stir in half of the grated Pecorino Romano, allowing it to melt into the sauce.
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15
Plate the rigatoni, ensuring each portion gets several rings of pajata. Garnish with the remaining Pecorino and a sprinkle of fresh parsley.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use milk-fed calf (vitello) pajata; older beef pajata will not have the creamy interior required for this dish. If you cannot find pajata locally, look for a specialized Italian butcher who understands the 'Quinto Quarto' tradition. Be very gentle when tying the rings; if the casing punctures, the 'milk' will leak out and thin the sauce too much. Slow cooking is non-negotiable—the collagen in the casing needs time to break down into a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Rigatoni is the traditional choice because the large holes and ridges perfectly capture the thick, chunky sauce.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a robust Roman red wine, such as a Cesanese del Piglio or a Velletri Rosso. Serve with a side of sautéed chicory (cicoria ripassata) with garlic and chili to cut through the richness. Follow the meal with a simple arugula salad dressed with lemon to cleanse the palate. Provide extra Pecorino Romano on the table for those who enjoy an even sharper finish. Finish the experience with a strong espresso and perhaps a small glass of Sambuca.