📝 About This Recipe
Hailing from the heart of Perugia, this classic Umbrian side dish transforms the humble cardoon (gobbi) into a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth masterpiece. Traditionally served during the winter holidays, the cardoons are first parboiled to remove bitterness, then layered with a rich, savory meat sauce and plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The result is a comforting, golden-crusted gratin that perfectly captures the rustic elegance of Italian farmhouse cooking.
🥗 Ingredients
The Cardoons (Gobbi)
- 2 large heads Cardoons (cleaned, strings removed, and cut into 3-inch batons)
- 1 piece Lemon (halved, to prevent oxidation)
- 1 tablespoon All-purpose flour (added to boiling water to keep cardoons white)
- 2 tablespoons Salt (for the boiling water)
The Ragù (Meat Sauce)
- 3 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil (high quality Umbrian oil preferred)
- 1 small Yellow onion (very finely minced)
- 1 small Carrot (finely minced)
- 1 stalk Celery (finely minced)
- 200 grams Ground beef (lean)
- 100 grams Ground pork (or Italian sausage meat)
- 1/2 cup Dry white wine (such as Grechetto or Orvieto)
- 400 ml Tomato purée (Passata)
- to taste Salt and Black Pepper
Assembly and Finish
- 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano (freshly grated)
- 30 grams Unsalted butter (cut into small chilled cubes)
- 2 tablespoons Breadcrumbs (optional, for extra crunch)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Prepare a large bowl of cold water and squeeze the juice of half a lemon into it. This 'acidulated water' prevents the cardoons from turning brown as you work.
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2
Trim the cardoons by removing the leaves and tough outer stalks. Use a vegetable peeler or a small knife to pull away the fibrous strings from the back of each stalk, much like you would with celery.
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3
Cut the cleaned stalks into 3-inch (7-8cm) batons and immediately drop them into the lemon water.
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4
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt, the remaining lemon half, and whisk in one tablespoon of flour (this helps keep the cardoons pale). Add the cardoons and simmer for 40-50 minutes until tender when pierced with a fork. Drain well.
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5
While the cardoons boil, prepare the ragù. In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion, carrot, and celery until soft and translucent (about 8-10 minutes).
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6
Increase the heat slightly and add the ground beef and pork. Brown the meat thoroughly, breaking it up with a wooden spoon until no pink remains.
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7
Pour in the white wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to release the brown bits. Let the wine simmer until it has almost completely evaporated.
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8
Stir in the tomato passata, season with salt and pepper, and reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes, adding a splash of water if the sauce becomes too thick.
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9
Preheat your oven to 190°C (375°F). Lightly grease a rectangular baking dish with butter or olive oil.
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10
Spread a few spoonfuls of the meat sauce on the bottom of the prepared dish. Arrange a single layer of the boiled cardoons over the sauce.
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11
Top the cardoons with more meat sauce and a generous dusting of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used, finishing with a thick layer of sauce and cheese.
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12
Scatter the small cubes of butter and the breadcrumbs (if using) over the top to ensure a golden, crispy crust.
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13
Bake in the center of the oven for 25-30 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the top is beautifully browned and crusty.
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14
Remove from the oven and let the dish rest for at least 10 minutes before serving. This allows the layers to set and the flavors to meld.
💡 Chef's Tips
Cardoons are notoriously bitter; don't skip the long boiling time or the flour/lemon in the water, as these steps are essential for a mellow flavor. When cleaning cardoons, wear gloves if you have sensitive skin, as the juice can temporarily stain your fingers brown. For a vegetarian version, replace the meat ragù with a thick, nutmeg-spiced Béchamel sauce and sautéed mushrooms. This dish tastes even better the next day, so feel free to assemble it in advance and bake it just before serving. Make sure the cardoons are very well drained after boiling; excess water will make the gratin soggy.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair this with a bold Umbrian red wine like Sagrantino di Montefalco or a structured Sangiovese. Serve as a 'contorno' alongside a simple roasted veal or herb-crusted pork loin. Accompany with crusty sourdough bread to mop up the savory meat sauce. For a traditional Umbrian feast, serve this following a first course of Cappelletti in brodo. It also works wonderfully as a standalone warm appetizer for a winter dinner party.