📝 About This Recipe
A cornerstone of Venetian cuisine, this robust dish features thick, bronze-extruded bigoli pasta tossed in a deeply savory, slow-simmered duck ragù. Traditionally served during the feast of San Lorenzo, the sauce balances the richness of duck fat with aromatic herbs and a whisper of dry white wine. It is a soul-warming masterpiece that captures the rustic elegance of the Italian countryside in every bite.
🥗 Ingredients
The Duck & Base
- 600 grams Duck breast and legs (skin removed from half, all meat finely hand-minced)
- 2 tablespoons Duck fat or Extra Virgin Olive Oil (duck fat is preferred for authenticity)
- 50 grams Pancetta (finely diced to add depth)
Aromatics & Liquids
- 1 medium Yellow onion (very finely minced)
- 1 small Carrot (finely minced)
- 1 small Celery stalk (finely minced)
- 2 pieces Garlic cloves (left whole and smashed, to be removed later)
- 150 ml Dry white wine (such as Pinot Grigio or Soave)
- 400 ml Chicken or Duck stock (high quality, unsalted)
- 1 tablespoon Tomato paste (double concentrated)
Herbs & Finishing
- 4-5 leaves Fresh Sage (whole)
- 1 sprig Fresh Rosemary (tied with kitchen twine)
- 1 pinch Cinnamon (the secret traditional Venetian touch)
- 500 grams Bigoli pasta (fresh if possible, otherwise high-quality dried)
- 1/2 cup Parmigiano Reggiano (freshly grated)
- to taste Salt and Black Pepper (freshly cracked pepper)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by preparing your soffritto. Finely mince the onion, carrot, and celery until they are almost a paste. This ensures they melt into the sauce.
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2
In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or deep skillet, melt the duck fat (or olive oil) over medium-low heat. Add the diced pancetta and cook until the fat renders and it starts to crisp.
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3
Add the minced soffritto vegetables and the smashed garlic cloves to the pan. Sauté gently for 10-12 minutes until the vegetables are soft and translucent, but not browned.
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4
Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the hand-minced duck meat to the pan. Brown the meat thoroughly, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until the moisture has evaporated and the meat is sizzling.
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5
Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes to caramelize it slightly, which deepens the color and flavor of the ragù.
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6
Pour in the white wine. Scrape the bottom of the pan to release all the brown bits (fond). Let the wine simmer until it has reduced by at least two-thirds.
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7
Add the stock, sage leaves, rosemary sprig, and that tiny pinch of cinnamon. Season lightly with salt and a generous amount of black pepper.
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8
Lower the heat to the absolute minimum, cover partially, and let the ragù simmer for 75-90 minutes. If it looks too dry, add a splash more stock or water.
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9
Once the sauce is thick and glossy, remove the garlic cloves, sage leaves, and rosemary sprig. Taste and adjust seasoning.
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10
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the bigoli according to package directions (usually 8-10 minutes) until 'al dente'.
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11
Using tongs, transfer the bigoli directly into the ragù, carrying a little pasta water with it. Toss vigorously over medium heat for 1-2 minutes to emulsify the sauce.
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12
Remove from heat, sprinkle with a handful of Parmigiano Reggiano and a final drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately in warmed bowls.
💡 Chef's Tips
Hand-mincing the duck with a sharp knife rather than using a meat grinder creates a much better texture for a traditional ragù. Do not skip the cinnamon; it is a historical Venetian hallmark that cuts through the richness of the duck without making it taste sweet. If you cannot find Bigoli, thick whole-wheat spaghetti or 'Bucatini' are the best substitutes. Always save a cup of pasta cooking water before draining; it is liquid gold for adjusting the consistency of your sauce at the end. For the most authentic flavor, include the duck liver (finely chopped) in the last 15 minutes of simmering.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair this with a medium-bodied red wine from the Veneto region, such as a Valpolicella Ripasso or a Bardolino. Serve with a side of bitter greens like radicchio tardivo or sautéed chicory to balance the fat of the duck. A starter of Venetian 'Sarde in Saor' (sweet and sour sardines) creates a beautiful traditional themed menu. Provide extra freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a pepper mill at the table for guests to customize their spice level.