📝 About This Recipe
A soul-warming classic from the alpine regions of Northern Italy, this dish pairs creamy, stone-ground polenta with a deeply aromatic venison ragù. The lean, wild flavor of the capriolo (roe deer) is softened by a long, slow braise in robust red wine, juniper berries, and fragrant herbs. It is the ultimate expression of Italian mountain hospitality—rich, earthy, and profoundly satisfying.
🥗 Ingredients
The Venison Marinade
- 2 lbs Venison shoulder or leg (cut into 1-inch cubes)
- 750 ml Red Wine (Nebbiolo or Barbera) (one full bottle)
- 6-8 pieces Juniper berries (lightly crushed)
- 5 pieces Black peppercorns (whole)
- 2 pieces Bay leaves (fresh or dried)
The Stew (Capriolo in Umido)
- 3 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil
- 2 oz Pancetta (finely diced)
- 1 large Carrot (finely minced)
- 1 stalk Celery (finely minced)
- 1 medium Yellow onion (finely minced)
- 2 cloves Garlic (smashed)
- 2 tablespoons Tomato paste (double concentrated)
- 2 cups Beef or game stock (low sodium)
- 1 sprig Fresh rosemary (tied with kitchen twine)
The Polenta
- 2 cups Coarse stone-ground cornmeal (Bramata style preferred)
- 8 cups Water (or a mix of water and milk)
- 1 tablespoon Kosher salt
- 3 tablespoons Unsalted butter (cold)
- 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano (freshly grated)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin the night before: Place the venison cubes in a large glass bowl with the wine, juniper berries, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours to tenderize the meat and infuse it with aromatics.
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2
Drain the venison from the marinade, reserving the liquid but discarding the whole spices. Pat the meat thoroughly dry with paper towels; this is crucial for a good sear.
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3
In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Brown the venison in batches, ensuring not to crowd the pan, until a deep golden crust forms on all sides. Remove meat and set aside.
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4
Lower the heat to medium. Add the diced pancetta and cook until the fat renders. Add the minced carrot, celery, and onion (the soffritto) and cook gently for 8-10 minutes until soft and translucent.
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5
Stir in the garlic and tomato paste. Cook for 2 minutes until the paste turns a rusty brick color and smells slightly caramelized.
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6
Pour in the reserved marinade wine to deglaze the pot, scraping up all the brown bits (fond) from the bottom. Bring to a boil and let the wine reduce by half.
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7
Return the venison to the pot. Add the beef stock and the rosemary sprig. The liquid should just cover the meat. Bring to a simmer, then turn the heat to low, cover partially, and cook for 2 to 2.5 hours until the meat is fork-tender.
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8
While the meat finishes, prepare the polenta. Bring 8 cups of salted water to a rolling boil in a large, heavy pot.
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9
Slowly whisk in the cornmeal in a steady stream to avoid lumps. Reduce heat to low.
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10
Switch to a wooden spoon and cook the polenta, stirring frequently, for about 45-50 minutes. The polenta is ready when it pulls away cleanly from the sides of the pot.
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11
Check the venison. If the sauce is too thin, remove the lid and increase heat for the last 15 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Remove the rosemary sprig.
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12
Finish the polenta by vigorously stirring in the cold butter and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano until glossy and creamy.
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13
To serve, spoon a generous mound of hot polenta onto a warmed plate or wooden board. Create a well in the center and ladle the rich venison stew and its silky sauce over the top.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always pat the venison dry before searing; moisture is the enemy of a flavorful crust. If the venison tastes too 'gamey' for your preference, add a small square of dark chocolate (80% cocoa) to the sauce in the last 10 minutes of cooking. For the smoothest polenta, don't rush the process; stone-ground cornmeal needs time to fully hydrate and lose its graininess. If the polenta thickens too much before serving, whisk in a splash of warm milk or stock to loosen it back to a pourable consistency.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a full-bodied Italian red wine like a Barolo, Valtellina Superiore, or an Aglianico. Serve with a side of sautéed wild mushrooms or garlicky sautéed kale to complement the earthy tones. A garnish of fresh gremolata (lemon zest, parsley, and garlic) can add a bright pop of acidity to cut through the richness. Follow the meal with a simple dessert of poached pears in red wine for a cohesive alpine-themed dinner.