📝 About This Recipe
A true masterpiece of Venetian culinary heritage, Baccalà Mantecato is an ethereal, whipped emulsion of Atlantic cod that transforms humble fish into a velvet-smooth cloud of savory delight. Traditionally served in the 'bacari' wine bars of Venice, this dish relies on the physical transformation of the fish through vigorous whisking rather than the addition of heavy cream. It is a sophisticated, timeless preparation that celebrates the perfect marriage of salt, high-quality olive oil, and patience.
🥗 Ingredients
The Fish
- 600 grams Dried Salted Cod (Stoccafisso or Baccalà) (high quality, skin-on and bone-in for best flavor)
- 2-3 liters Cold Water (for soaking the fish)
Poaching Liquid
- 500 ml Whole Milk (full fat is preferred)
- 500 ml Water (to supplement the milk)
- 2 pieces Bay Leaves (fresh or dried)
- 5 pieces Black Peppercorns (whole)
- 1 strip Lemon Peel (pith removed)
- 1 piece Garlic Clove (smashed)
The Emulsion
- 200 ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil (use a mild, delicate oil)
- 100 ml Sunflower or Grapeseed Oil (to lighten the flavor profile)
- 50-100 ml Poaching Liquid (reserved from the pot)
- to taste Salt (be cautious as the fish is naturally salty)
- 1/4 teaspoon White Pepper (finely ground)
For Serving
- 2 tablespoons Fresh Parsley (finely chopped)
- 500 grams White Polenta (cooked and sliced into rectangles)
- 1 piece Garlic Clove (for rubbing the polenta)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by soaking the salted cod in a large bowl of cold water for at least 24 to 48 hours. Change the water every 8 hours to effectively remove the excess salt and rehydrate the fibers.
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2
Drain the fish and rinse it under cold running water. Cut the cod into large, manageable chunks, leaving the skin and bones intact for now as they provide essential gelatin for the emulsion.
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3
Place the cod chunks in a large saucepan. Add the milk, water, bay leaves, peppercorns, lemon peel, and smashed garlic. The liquid should just cover the fish.
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4
Bring the liquid to a very gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Do not let it boil vigorously, as this can toughen the fish. Cook for 20-25 minutes until the fish flakes easily with a fork.
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5
Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the fish from the liquid and place it on a clean plate. Reserve at least one cup of the warm poaching liquid, straining out the aromatics.
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6
While the fish is still warm, remove the skin and all bones. This is a crucial step; use your fingers to ensure every small bone is discarded.
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7
Place the cleaned fish flakes into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
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8
Begin beating the fish at a medium speed. As the fish breaks down into fibers, begin drizzling in the olive oil and sunflower oil in a very slow, steady stream, exactly as if you were making a mayonnaise.
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9
Continue beating vigorously. The fish will begin to absorb the oil and transform into a creamy, white paste. If it looks too dry or thick, add a tablespoon of the reserved warm poaching liquid.
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10
The 'mantecatura' process is complete when the mixture is airy, mousseline-like, and holds its shape. This usually takes about 10-12 minutes of whisking.
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11
Fold in the finely chopped parsley and season with white pepper. Taste before adding any salt, as the cod often retains enough salinity from the curing process.
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12
Prepare the polenta by grilling or searing the slices in a pan until a light crust forms. Rub each slice with a raw garlic clove for an authentic Venetian touch.
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13
Spoon a generous mound of the warm or room-temperature Baccalà Mantecato onto the polenta slices and serve immediately.
💡 Chef's Tips
Temperature is key: always whip the fish while it is still warm to help the proteins emulsify with the oil. Choose your oil wisely: a heavy, peppery olive oil will overwhelm the delicate fish; use a 'Liguria' style or a blend of olive and neutral oil. Don't use a food processor if possible; the high-speed blades can turn the texture gummy. A stand mixer or a wooden spoon and elbow grease yield the best texture. If the mixture breaks (separates), stop adding oil and add a tiny splash of warm milk or poaching liquid while whisking vigorously to bring it back together. For the most authentic flavor, look for 'Stoccafisso' (air-dried cod) rather than just wet-salted 'Baccalà'.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve on warm, grilled white polenta slices for the most traditional Venetian experience. Pair with a crisp, acidic white wine from the Veneto region, such as a Soave Classico or a dry Prosecco. Accompany with a side of marinated artichokes or bitter radicchio salad to balance the richness. Spread on toasted sourdough crostini rubbed with a hint of lemon zest for a modern appetizer. Serve as part of a 'Cicchetti' platter alongside green olives and marinated anchovies.