Ancestral Mole de Caderas: The Soul of Tehuacán

🌍 Cuisine: Mexican
🏷️ Category: Main Course
⏱️ Prep: 45 minutes
🍳 Cook: 3 hours
👥 Serves: 6-8 servings

📝 About This Recipe

A legendary seasonal treasure from the Mixteca region, Mole de Caderas is a profound, rustic broth-based mole made from the sun-cured hips and backbone of goats. This dish represents a centuries-old tradition, featuring a complex interplay of dried Guajillo and Costeño chilies balanced by the unique, herbal punch of fresh pipicha and wild green beans (ejotes ayocotes). It is a deeply savory, aromatic masterpiece that celebrates the ritual of the 'Matanza' with every soul-warming spoonful.

🥗 Ingredients

The Meat and Broth

  • 2 kg Goat hips and backbone (cleaned and cut into medium pieces; traditionally sun-cured)
  • 1 large White onion (halved)
  • 1 head Garlic (top sliced off to expose cloves)
  • 2 tablespoons Salt (adjust to taste)
  • 5 liters Water

The Chili Base

  • 100 grams Guajillo chilies (stemmed and seeded)
  • 50 grams Costeño chilies (stemmed and seeded; adds the signature heat)
  • 4-5 pieces Serrano chilies (fresh, for added brightness)
  • 500 grams Tomatillos (husked and rinsed)
  • 4 pieces Garlic cloves (peeled)

Vegetables and Aromatics

  • 500 grams Ejotes Ayocotes (wild runner beans/green beans, ends trimmed)
  • 1/2 cup Guaje seeds (freshly peeled from pods; provides the nutty, garlic-like depth)
  • 1 large bunch Pipicha leaves (fresh; essential for the authentic herbal aroma)
  • 2 tablespoons Lard or Vegetable oil (for frying the salsa)

👨‍🍳 Instructions

  1. 1

    In a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot or a traditional clay 'olla de barro', place the goat meat, halved onion, and the head of garlic. Cover with 5 liters of water.

  2. 2

    Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface to ensure a clear, clean broth.

  3. 3

    Add salt and let the meat simmer gently for about 2 to 2.5 hours, or until the meat is tender and begins to pull away from the bone.

  4. 4

    While the meat simmers, prepare the chilies. On a hot griddle or comal, lightly toast the Guajillo and Costeño chilies for 30-60 seconds until fragrant, being careful not to burn them.

  5. 5

    Soak the toasted chilies in hot water for 15-20 minutes until they are soft and pliable.

  6. 6

    In a separate pot, boil the tomatillos and fresh serrano chilies in water until the tomatillos turn pale green and are soft (about 10 minutes).

  7. 7

    In a blender, combine the soaked dry chilies, boiled tomatillos, serranos, 4 cloves of garlic, and the guaje seeds. Blend with a cup of the chili soaking liquid until perfectly smooth.

  8. 8

    In a large skillet, heat the lard or oil. Strain the blended chili mixture into the skillet and fry the sauce over medium heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring constantly until it darkens and thickens.

  9. 9

    Pour the fried chili sauce into the large pot with the cooked meat and broth. Stir well to incorporate.

  10. 10

    Add the ejotes ayocotes (green beans) to the pot. Let the mole simmer for another 20 minutes so the beans cook through and absorb the flavors.

  11. 11

    About 10 minutes before serving, add the fresh pipicha leaves. This herb is delicate, so adding it late preserves its unique citrus-anise fragrance.

  12. 12

    Taste the mole. Adjust the salt if necessary. The consistency should be a light, soupy broth, not a thick paste like Mole Poblano.

  13. 13

    Serve piping hot in deep bowls, ensuring each guest receives a piece of the flavorful hip or backbone.

💡 Chef's Tips

Always toast your chilies carefully; if they turn black, the mole will be bitter. If you cannot find 'Ejotes Ayocotes', regular thick-cut green beans are a suitable substitute. The Guaje seeds are essential for the 'grounded' flavor—look for them in specialized Mexican markets or use a tiny bit of extra garlic and toasted pumpkin seeds if desperate. For the most authentic flavor, use a clay pot (olla de barro), which adds a subtle earthy minerality to the broth. Make this a day in advance if possible; the flavors of the goat and chilies deepen significantly overnight.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

Serve with plenty of fresh, hand-pressed corn tortillas for dipping. Provide small bowls of chopped raw onion, fresh cilantro, and lime wedges on the side. Pair with a smoky Mezcal from Oaxaca or Puebla to complement the gaminess of the goat. A side of simple white rice can be used to soak up the delicious broth. Finish the meal with a refreshing hibiscus water (Agua de Jamaica) to cleanse the palate.