📝 About This Recipe
This quintessential masterpiece of French Haute Cuisine celebrates the delicate, velvety texture of milk-fed veal sweetbreads paired with the earthy, woodland depth of morel mushrooms. A staple of Michelin-starred menus, the dish balances the richness of a Cognac-infused crème fraîche sauce with the golden, crisp exterior of the expertly pressed offal. It is a sophisticated symphony of textures and flavors that embodies the elegance of traditional Parisian gastronomy.
🥗 Ingredients
The Sweetbreads
- 800 grams Veal Sweetbreads (fresh heart glands preferred, soaked in cold water for 3 hours)
- 500 ml Whole Milk (for poaching)
- 1/2 cup All-purpose Flour (for dredging)
- 3 tablespoons Clarified Butter (for pan-searing)
The Morel Sauce
- 250 grams Fresh Morel Mushrooms (cleaned and halved if large)
- 2 pieces Shallots (finely minced)
- 60 ml Cognac (high quality)
- 100 ml Dry White Wine (such as Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc)
- 200 ml Veal Stock (dark, gelatinous homemade stock)
- 150 ml Crème Fraîche (heavy French style)
- 20 grams Unsalted Butter (cold, cubed)
Seasoning and Garnish
- to taste Fine Sea Salt
- to taste White Pepper (freshly ground)
- 1 tablespoon Fresh Chives (finely snipped)
- 1/2 teaspoon Lemon Juice (to brighten the sauce)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for at least 3 hours, changing the water every hour until it remains clear; this removes any impurities and blood.
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2
Place the sweetbreads in a pot and cover with the milk and a pinch of salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and poach for exactly 5 minutes.
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3
Immediately transfer the sweetbreads to an ice bath to stop the cooking. Once chilled, carefully peel away the outer membrane and any fatty bits, being careful not to break the main lobes.
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4
Wrap the cleaned sweetbreads in a clean kitchen towel, place them between two baking sheets, and weigh them down with a heavy pan or weights in the refrigerator for 2 hours to firm up the texture.
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5
Clean the morels thoroughly using a soft brush or a quick rinse in cold water to remove grit; pat them completely dry.
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6
In a sauté pan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the morels and sauté over medium-high heat for 5-6 minutes until they release their liquid and begin to brown. Add the minced shallots and cook for another 2 minutes.
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7
Deglaze the morel pan with Cognac, carefully flaming it with a lighter. Once the flames subside, add the white wine and reduce by half.
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8
Pour in the veal stock and simmer until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds, creating a concentrated glaze. Stir in the crème fraîche and simmer until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
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9
Slice the pressed sweetbreads into thick medallions. Season generously with salt and white pepper, then dredge lightly in flour, shaking off any excess.
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10
Heat clarified butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. When shimmering, add the sweetbreads and sear for 3-4 minutes per side until deeply golden and crispy.
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11
Lower the heat and add the cold cubed butter to the skillet, spooning the foaming butter over the sweetbreads for 1 minute (arroser) to ensure a rich finish.
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12
Finish the morel sauce with a squeeze of lemon juice and check for seasoning. Arrange the crispy sweetbreads on warmed plates.
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13
Generously spoon the morels and the creamy sauce over the sweetbreads. Garnish with fresh chives and serve immediately.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use 'heart' sweetbreads rather than 'throat' sweetbreads for a superior, rounder shape and creamier texture. Don't skip the pressing stage; it is essential for achieving that uniform, professional 'steak' appearance and a firm bite. Ensure the morels are perfectly dry before sautéing, otherwise they will steam rather than develop a rich, nutty crust. Clarified butter is vital for the sear because it has a higher smoke point, allowing for a golden crust without the milk solids burning.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a mature White Burgundy (Chardonnay) or a Vin Jaune from the Jura for a classic regional match. Serve alongside a silky potato purée (Pomme Purée) enriched with plenty of butter. Accompany with butter-glazed white asparagus or young spring peas to add a fresh green element. A side of toasted brioche is perfect for mopping up the luxurious morel cream sauce.