📝 About This Recipe
Transport your senses to the Loire Valley with this quintessential French chèvre, distinguished by its elegant log shape and signature rye straw core. This recipe guides you through the delicate process of slow lactic fermentation, resulting in a buttery, ivory paste that develops a complex, nutty tang as it ripens. Coated in traditional salted charcoal ash, this cheese is a masterpiece of texture that evolves from creamy and supple to firm and intense over several weeks.
🥗 Ingredients
The Milk & Cultures
- 4 liters Fresh Whole Goat's Milk (Non-homogenized and low-temperature pasteurized for best results)
- 1/8 teaspoon Mesophilic Starter Culture (Type M) (Containing Lactococcus lactis and cremoris)
- 1/16 teaspoon Geotrichum Candidum (The white mold responsible for the 'brainy' rind texture)
- 2 drops Liquid Animal Rennet (Diluted in 1/4 cup non-chlorinated water)
- 1/4 teaspoon Calcium Chloride (Diluted in 1/4 cup water (only if using pasteurized milk))
The Signature Finish
- 2 tablespoons Food-Grade Vegetable Ash (Activated charcoal powder)
- 4 teaspoons Fine Sea Salt (Non-iodized)
- 4 pieces Sterilized Rye Straws (Approximately 15cm long, used to support the log)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Gently heat the goat's milk in a heavy-bottomed pot to 72°F (22°C). This low temperature is crucial for the slow, 24-hour lactic acidification process.
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2
Sprinkle the Mesophilic culture and Geotrichum Candidum over the surface of the milk. Let it rehydrate for 5 minutes, then stir in an up-and-down motion for 1 minute.
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3
Add the diluted calcium chloride (if using) and the 2 drops of diluted rennet. Stir gently for 30 seconds to ensure even distribution, then cover the pot.
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4
Allow the milk to sit undisturbed at room temperature (around 68-72°F) for 20 to 24 hours. You are looking for a 'clean break' and a thin layer of whey on top of the curd.
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5
Carefully ladle the fragile curds into truncated cone molds or cylindrical log molds. Do not cut the curds; the goal is to keep them as whole as possible to retain moisture.
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6
Let the cheese drain in the molds at room temperature for 24 hours. As the whey drains, the curd will drop significantly in height.
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7
Carefully insert a sterilized rye straw through the center of each log. This traditional method helps ventilate the interior and provides structural integrity.
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8
Unmold the logs gently onto a draining mat. Mix the vegetable ash and sea salt together in a small bowl until the color is a uniform slate grey.
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9
Using a fine sieve or clean hands, coat the entire surface of each log with the salt-ash mixture. The ash regulates the surface pH to encourage the growth of the Geotrichum rind.
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10
Move the cheeses to a ripening box or 'cave' maintained at 50-55°F (10-13°C) with 85-90% humidity.
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11
Flip the cheeses daily. After 5-7 days, you will see a fine, wrinkly white mold beginning to bloom through the ash.
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12
Continue ripening for a total of 10-14 days for a classic 'frais' (fresh) texture, or up to 4 weeks for a more pungent, 'sec' (dry) character.
💡 Chef's Tips
Cleanliness is paramount; ensure all equipment is sanitized with boiling water or star-san before use. If the cheese feels too wet, increase airflow in your ripening area to prevent 'slippery skin' syndrome. Always use non-chlorinated water for diluting rennet, as chlorine will kill the enzymes. If you cannot find rye straws, you can omit them, but be extra careful when handling the fragile young logs. The salt-to-ash ratio is vital; the salt pulls moisture out of the cheese while the ash creates the perfect alkaline environment for ripening.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve at room temperature with a crisp, flinty Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, such as a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. Pair with wildflower honey and toasted walnuts to balance the lactic acidity. Slice using a warm wire cutter or thin knife to maintain the beautiful contrast between the dark rind and white paste. Accompany with fresh figs or a dollop of apricot preserves on a crusty sourdough baguette. Crumble over a warm salad of roasted beets and arugula for a sophisticated appetizer.