📝 About This Recipe
A pinnacle of classic French bistro cooking, this dish celebrates the delicate, custard-like texture of calf’s brains, elevated by the nutty complexity of 'beurre noir' or dark brown butter. The richness of the offal is masterfully balanced by the sharp acidity of capers and a splash of high-quality sherry vinegar. It is a sophisticated, velvet-smooth delicacy that represents the heart of traditional nose-to-tail gastronomy.
🥗 Ingredients
The Brains and Soaking Liquid
- 4 sets Fresh calf's brains (cleaned of excess blood)
- 4 cups Cold water (for soaking)
- 2 tablespoons White distilled vinegar (for the soaking bath)
- 1 cup Ice cubes
The Court-Bouillon (Poaching Liquid)
- 6 cups Water
- 1/2 cup Dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc)
- 1 small Yellow onion (thinly sliced)
- 1 small Carrot (peeled and sliced)
- 1 bundle Bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, and parsley stalks)
- 6 whole Black peppercorns (crushed)
- 1 teaspoon Sea salt
Sautéing and Sauce
- 1/2 cup All-purpose flour (for dredging)
- 6 tablespoons Unsalted European-style butter (high fat content is best)
- 3 tablespoons Nonpareil capers (drained and patted dry)
- 2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar (or lemon juice)
- 3 tablespoons Fresh flat-leaf parsley (finely chopped)
- to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by soaking the calf's brains in a bowl of cold water mixed with 2 tablespoons of white vinegar for 30 minutes. This helps whiten the meat and loosen the outer membranes.
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2
Gently remove the brains from the water. Under a very thin stream of cold running water, use your fingers to carefully peel away the thin, blood-vessel-lined membrane covering the brains. Be extremely gentle as the texture is fragile.
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3
Prepare the court-bouillon: In a medium saucepan, combine the 6 cups of water, white wine, sliced onion, carrot, bouquet garni, peppercorns, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes to infuse the flavors.
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4
Lower the cleaned brains into the simmering court-bouillon. The liquid should be at a bare simmer—never a rolling boil. Poach the brains for 15-18 minutes until they feel firm to the touch but still springy.
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5
Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the brains and transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels. Allow them to cool slightly and pat them very dry.
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6
If the brain lobes are large, slice them in half horizontally or into thick 1-inch medallions. Season both sides generously with salt and black pepper.
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7
Place the flour in a shallow dish. Dredge each piece of brain in the flour, shaking off any excess so only a very thin, translucent coating remains.
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8
In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Once the butter is foaming, add the floured brains.
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9
Sauté the brains for 2-3 minutes per side until they develop a golden-brown, crisp crust. Remove the brains to a warm serving platter.
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10
Wipe out the skillet and add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter. Cook over medium heat, swirling the pan constantly. The butter will foam, then turn a deep amber color and smell intensely nutty.
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11
The moment the butter reaches a dark hazelnut color, add the capers (be careful of the splutter). Immediately follow with the sherry vinegar to stop the cooking process.
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12
Stir in the chopped parsley and immediately pour the sizzling brown butter sauce over the sautéed brains. Serve while piping hot.
💡 Chef's Tips
Freshness is paramount; only buy brains from a trusted butcher and cook them the same day they are purchased. Do not skip the soaking step as it removes the metallic taste often associated with offal. When making the brown butter, watch it like a hawk; it goes from nutty and perfect to burnt and bitter in seconds. Ensure the brains are very dry before dredging in flour to prevent the coating from becoming gummy. If you prefer a brighter finish, add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice right before serving.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve alongside steamed tournéed potatoes or a buttery potato purée to soak up the sauce. A crisp, acidic green salad with a Dijon vinaigrette provides a necessary palate cleanser. Pair with a glass of chilled Chablis or a dry Riesling to cut through the richness of the butter. Warm crusty baguette slices are essential for mopping up every drop of the 'beurre noir'. Consider a side of sautéed spinach or braised leeks for a touch of sweetness.