Crispy Pan-Seared Ris de Veau with Morel Cream and Asparagus

🌍 Cuisine: French
🏷️ Category: Main Course
⏱️ Prep: 4 hours (includes soaking and pressing)
🍳 Cook: 30 minutes
👥 Serves: 4 servings

📝 About This Recipe

Indulge in the 'caviar of offal' with this classic French preparation of veal sweetbreads, prized for their silky, custard-like interior and delicate flavor. This recipe elevates the prized thymus gland through a meticulous process of poaching, pressing, and pan-searing to achieve a glass-like golden crust. Paired with an earthy morel mushroom cream sauce, this dish represents the pinnacle of traditional Parisian bistro elegance.

🥗 Ingredients

The Sweetbreads

  • 1.5 pounds Fresh Veal Sweetbreads (heart or throat glands, membranes intact for now)
  • 2 cups Whole Milk (for soaking)

Poaching Liquid (Court-Bouillon)

  • 6 cups Water
  • 1/2 cup Dry White Wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc)
  • 1/2 piece Lemon (sliced)
  • 1 teaspoon Black Peppercorns (whole)
  • 1 Bay Leaf (dried)

The Morel Cream Sauce

  • 1 ounce Dried Morel Mushrooms (rehydrated in warm water)
  • 1 large Shallot (finely minced)
  • 3/4 cup Heavy Cream
  • 2 tablespoons Cognac or Brandy
  • 4 tablespoons Unsalted Butter (divided)

Searing and Garnish

  • 1/2 cup All-Purpose Flour (for dredging)
  • 2 tablespoons Grapeseed Oil (high smoke point)
  • 2 tablespoons Fresh Chives (finely snipped)
  • 12 pieces Asparagus Spears (blanched)

👨‍🍳 Instructions

  1. 1

    Begin by soaking the sweetbreads in a bowl of milk or cold water for at least 2 hours (or overnight) in the refrigerator to remove any traces of blood and whiten the meat.

  2. 2

    Prepare the court-bouillon: In a large pot, combine the water, wine, lemon slices, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes to infuse flavors.

  3. 3

    Drain the sweetbreads and place them into the simmering liquid. Poach gently for 8-10 minutes. They should be firm to the touch but not fully cooked through.

  4. 4

    Immediately transfer the sweetbreads to an ice bath to stop the cooking process. Once cooled, pat them dry.

  5. 5

    Carefully peel away the outer membrane and any fatty bits or tubes using your fingers and a paring knife. Be gentle to keep the lobes intact.

  6. 6

    Place the cleaned sweetbreads on a parchment-lined tray. Place another tray on top and weigh it down with a heavy skillet or cans. Refrigerate and press for 2 hours; this creates a uniform thickness and better texture.

  7. 7

    Prepare the sauce: Sauté the minced shallots in 1 tablespoon of butter until translucent. Add the rehydrated morels and cook for 3-4 minutes.

  8. 8

    Deglaze the pan with Cognac (be careful of the flame) and reduce by half. Add the heavy cream and simmer until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt and pepper.

  9. 9

    Slice the pressed sweetbreads into 1-inch thick medallions. Season generously with salt and pepper, then dredge lightly in flour, shaking off any excess.

  10. 10

    Heat the grapeseed oil and 2 tablespoons of butter in a large stainless steel or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until the butter foams.

  11. 11

    Place the sweetbreads in the pan. Sear for 4-5 minutes per side, basting with the hot butter, until they develop a deep, mahogany-colored crust.

  12. 12

    During the last 2 minutes of searing, toss the blanched asparagus into the pan to warm through and glaze with the butter.

  13. 13

    To serve, place a pool of morel cream on each plate, top with 2-3 sweetbread medallions and the asparagus. Garnish with fresh chives.

💡 Chef's Tips

The 'pressing' step is non-negotiable; it transforms the texture from spongy to firm and luxurious. Always use 'Heart' sweetbreads if available, as they are rounder and more consistent in shape than 'Throat' sweetbreads. Don't crowd the pan when searing, or they will steam instead of forming a crispy crust. If the sauce gets too thick, whisk in a tablespoon of the mushroom soaking liquid for extra depth. Ensure the sweetbreads are very dry before dredging in flour to prevent a gummy exterior.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

A crisp, acidic white wine like a Premier Cru Chablis or a dry Riesling cuts through the richness beautifully. Serve alongside a silky potato purée or celery root mash to soak up the morel cream. A simple side of haricots verts with toasted almonds adds a lovely textural contrast. For a red wine pairing, choose a light-bodied Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Finish the meal with a light lemon tart to cleanse the palate after the rich cream sauce.