📝 About This Recipe
A crown jewel of French gastronomy, Ris de Veau aux Morilles represents the pinnacle of refined bistro cooking. This dish marries the delicate, velvety texture of milk-fed veal sweetbreads with the deep, earthy musk of woodland morels in a luxurious Cognac-infused cream sauce. It is a masterclass in balance, offering a crisp golden exterior that yields to a melt-in-your-mouth center, making it a favorite for celebratory dinners and gourmands alike.
🥗 Ingredients
The Sweetbreads
- 800 grams Fresh Veal Sweetbreads (heart or throat glands, preferably milk-fed)
- 500 ml Whole Milk (for soaking)
- 1 tablespoon Lemon Juice (for the poaching liquid)
The Morel Sauce
- 40 grams Dried Morels (rehydrated in warm water, or 300g fresh if in season)
- 2 pieces Shallots (finely minced)
- 60 ml Cognac or Brandy (for deglazing)
- 100 ml Dry White Wine (such as Chardonnay or Chablis)
- 250 ml Heavy Cream (Crème liquéfixed or heavy whipping cream)
- 150 ml Veal Stock (high quality or demi-glace)
Searing and Finishing
- 50 grams Unsalted Butter (divided for sautéing)
- 1/2 cup All-purpose Flour (for dredging)
- 1 tablespoon Fresh Chives (finely chopped)
- to taste Sea Salt and White Pepper (white pepper maintains the sauce color)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by soaking the sweetbreads in cold milk or water for at least 2 hours (or overnight in the fridge) to remove any impurities and whiten the meat.
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2
Drain the sweetbreads and place them in a pot of cold salted water with a squeeze of lemon. Bring to a gentle simmer and poach for exactly 3-4 minutes to firm them up.
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3
Immediately transfer the sweetbreads to an ice bath to stop the cooking process. Once cooled, carefully peel away the outer membrane and any fatty bits, taking care not to break the lobes.
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4
Place the cleaned sweetbreads between two plates or trays with a weight on top (like a heavy can) and refrigerate for 1 hour. This 'pressing' creates a uniform thickness for even searing.
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5
If using dried morels, strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter to remove grit and reserve the liquid. Rinse the morels thoroughly to ensure no sand remains in the honeycomb crevices.
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6
In a medium saucepan, melt 15g of butter and sauté the minced shallots until translucent. Add the morels and cook for 5 minutes until their moisture has evaporated.
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7
Deglaze the pan with Cognac, carefully flaming it if you are comfortable, or simply letting it reduce by half. Add the white wine and reduce again by two-thirds.
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8
Pour in the veal stock and 100ml of the reserved morel soaking liquid. Simmer until the liquid is syrupy, then stir in the heavy cream. Reduce the sauce over low heat until it coats the back of a spoon.
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9
While the sauce simmers, slice the pressed sweetbreads into thick medallions (about 2cm thick). Season generously with salt and white pepper.
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10
Dredge the medallions lightly in flour, shaking off any excess. In a large skillet, heat the remaining butter until it begins to foam and turn slightly nut-brown (beurre noisette).
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11
Sear the sweetbreads for 4-5 minutes per side. They should develop a deep, mahogany-golden crust while remaining tender inside. Baste them with the foaming butter as they cook.
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12
Taste the morel sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Add a final knob of cold butter for a glossy finish.
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13
Place the golden sweetbreads onto warmed plates, spoon the generous morel cream sauce over and around them, and garnish with freshly chopped chives.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always press your sweetbreads; it transforms the texture from spongy to firm and professional. Do not skip the soaking and blanching steps, as they are essential for a clean, delicate flavor. Use white pepper instead of black to keep the cream sauce looking pristine and elegant. If the sauce gets too thick, loosen it with a splash of the reserved morel soaking liquid or a touch more stock. Ensure the pan is hot before adding the sweetbreads to achieve that signature 'croustillant' (crunchy) exterior.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a full-bodied white Burgundy (Chardonnay) or a light, earthy Pinot Noir. Serve alongside a silky potato purée or buttery tagliatelle to soak up the extra sauce. A side of glazed baby carrots or steamed asparagus adds a nice crunch and color contrast. Serve with thick slices of toasted brioche to enjoy every drop of the morel cream.