📝 About This Recipe
A legendary masterpiece of French gastronomy, this ancient dish features the prehistoric lamprey simmered in a rich, velvety sauce of Saint-Émilion red wine and its own blood. Originating from the Gironde estuary, it is a labor of love that balances deep earthy notes with the sweetness of leeks and the aromatic punch of fine Cognac. This is not just a meal; it is a sophisticated ritual of patience and tradition that yields a texture more akin to delicate meat than fish.
🥗 Ingredients
The Lamprey
- 1.5 kg Fresh Lamprey (Traditionally kept alive until preparation to collect the blood)
- 2 tablespoons Red Wine Vinegar (To prevent the blood from curdling)
The Aromatics and Vegetables
- 1 kg Leeks (White and light green parts only, cut into 5cm batons)
- 6 pieces Shallots (Finely minced)
- 3 cloves Garlic (Crushed)
- 150 grams Smoked Bacon (Ventriche) (Cut into small lardons)
- 1 piece Bouquet Garni (Thyme, bay leaf, and parsley stalks tied together)
The Braising Liquid
- 1.5 liters Red Wine (A full-bodied Bordeaux, preferably Saint-Émilion or Pomerol)
- 50 ml Cognac (For flambéing)
- 50 grams Unsalted Butter (Cold, cubed)
- 1 teaspoon Granulated Sugar (To balance the acidity of the wine)
- 1 tablespoon Flour (For the roux/thickening)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
The most critical step: Suspend the lamprey by the head and make an incision near the tail to collect all the blood in a bowl containing the red wine vinegar. Whisk gently to prevent coagulation and set aside.
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2
Scald the lamprey briefly in boiling water for 10-15 seconds, then immediately scrape the skin with a knife to remove the slime. Rinse thoroughly in cold water.
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3
Cut the lamprey into sections approximately 6-8 cm long. Remove the central cord (the 'notochord') carefully if your fishmonger hasn't already done so.
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4
In a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or 'cocotte', melt half the butter and sauté the bacon lardons until golden brown.
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5
Add the leeks to the pot. Cook them slowly over medium-low heat until they are soft and translucent but not browned. Remove the leeks and bacon and set aside.
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6
Increase the heat and sear the lamprey pieces in the remaining fat until they firm up. Pour the Cognac over the fish and carefully ignite it with a long match to flambé.
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7
Once the flames subside, add the minced shallots and garlic, cooking for 2 minutes until fragrant.
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8
Pour in the entire bottle of red wine, add the bouquet garni, sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to a very low simmer.
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9
Cover the pot and let the lamprey braise for about 90 minutes. The flesh should be tender but not falling apart.
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10
Return the cooked leeks and bacon to the pot for the final 20 minutes of cooking.
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11
Carefully remove the lamprey pieces and leeks with a slotted spoon and arrange them in a deep serving dish. Keep warm.
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12
Strain the cooking liquid into a clean saucepan. Bring to a rapid boil and reduce by one-third to concentrate the flavors.
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13
Temper the reserved blood by whisking in a ladleful of the hot sauce, then pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Heat very gently—do not let it boil now, or the blood will curdle.
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14
Whisk in the remaining cold butter cubes to give the sauce a glossy finish. Pour the thick, chocolate-colored sauce over the lamprey and leeks.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use a wine you would be happy to drink; a cheap wine will make the sauce bitter. If you cannot find fresh lamprey blood, some chefs substitute with a mixture of high-quality pig's blood and a touch of dark cocoa powder. This dish is notoriously better the next day; gently reheat it over a bain-marie to preserve the texture of the sauce. Be meticulous when cleaning the lamprey; the removal of the external mucus is essential for a clean, refined flavor. Use a 'diffuser' on your stove to ensure the lowest possible simmer during the long braising process.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve with thick slices of rustic sourdough bread, toasted and rubbed with a hint of garlic. Pair with the same high-quality Bordeaux wine used in the cooking, such as a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. Accompany with simple steamed potatoes to soak up the luxurious, dark sauce. A side of bitter greens like endive or arugula provides a refreshing contrast to the richness of the dish. Finish the meal with a light fruit sorbet to cleanse the palate after the intense flavors.