📝 About This Recipe
A cornerstone of classic French bistro cooking, this dish transforms delicate veal kidneys into a luxurious masterpiece of texture and depth. The kidneys are gently braised in a sophisticated marriage of sharp Dijon mustard, nutty Sherry, and rich crème fraîche, resulting in a sauce that is both piquant and silky. This recipe celebrates the unique, tender profile of high-quality offal, offering a refined dining experience that is deeply comforting yet undeniably elegant.
🥗 Ingredients
The Kidneys
- 2 large Fresh Veal Kidneys (approx. 1.5 lbs, cleaned and cored)
- 2 cups Milk (for soaking/purifying)
- 3 tablespoons Unsalted Butter (divided)
- 1 tablespoon Neutral Oil (grapeseed or canola)
The Aromatics & Sauce Base
- 3 pieces Shallots (finely minced)
- 6 ounces Cremini Mushrooms (thinly sliced)
- 1/3 cup Dry Sherry (or dry white wine)
- 1/2 cup Veal Stock (high quality or unsalted beef stock)
The Mustard Cream
- 2 tablespoons Dijon Mustard (smooth style)
- 1 tablespoon Whole Grain Mustard (for texture)
- 1/2 cup Crème Fraîche (or heavy cream)
- 1 tablespoon Fresh Tarragon (finely chopped)
- to taste Sea Salt and Black Pepper (freshly cracked)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by prepping the kidneys. If not already done by your butcher, remove the outer membrane and slice the kidneys into bite-sized lobes, carefully trimming away the white central core (fat and ducts) with a sharp paring knife.
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2
Place the trimmed kidney pieces in a bowl and cover with milk. Let them soak for 20 minutes at room temperature; this mellows any strong metallic flavors and ensures a delicate taste.
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3
Drain the kidneys and pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and freshly cracked black pepper just before cooking.
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4
In a large heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of butter and the oil over medium-high heat until the butter foam subsides and begins to shimmer.
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5
Add the kidneys to the pan in a single layer. Sear them quickly for 2-3 minutes until browned on the outside but still pink and rare in the middle. Do not overcook. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on a warm plate.
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6
Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the same pan. Stir in the minced shallots and cook for 2 minutes until translucent.
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7
Add the sliced mushrooms to the pan. Sauté for 5-6 minutes until they have released their moisture and turned a golden brown color.
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8
Deglaze the pan with the dry Sherry, scraping up all the brown bits (fond) from the bottom. Let the liquid reduce by half.
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9
Pour in the veal stock and simmer for 3-4 minutes until the sauce begins to slightly thicken.
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10
Whisk in the Dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, and crème fraîche. Bring to a very gentle simmer; do not let it boil vigorously or the mustard may turn bitter.
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11
Return the kidneys and any accumulated juices back into the pan. Simmer gently for 2-3 minutes to allow the flavors to meld and the kidneys to reach a perfect medium-rare to medium temperature.
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12
Stir in the fresh tarragon and taste for seasoning. Adjust with more salt, pepper, or a tiny squeeze of lemon juice if needed.
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13
Remove from heat immediately and serve while the sauce is glossy and the kidneys are tender.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use veal kidneys rather than beef kidneys for this dish, as they are significantly more tender and milder in flavor. Never overcook the kidneys; they should remain slightly pink in the center to maintain a soft, marshmallow-like texture; overcooking results in a rubbery consistency. Soaking in milk or lightly salted water is a non-negotiable step for offal to ensure a clean, sweet flavor profile. If the sauce is too thin, remove the kidneys and reduce the cream sauce further before reuniting them. Ensure your mustard is fresh; old mustard loses its 'heat' and aromatic punch which is vital for balancing the richness of the crème fraîche.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve over a bed of buttery wide egg noodles or 'spätzle' to soak up the mustard cream. Accompany with a side of steamed haricots verts or lightly sautéed spinach for a pop of freshness. A crusty baguette is essential for polishing off every drop of the luxurious sauce. Pair with a crisp, high-acidity white wine like a Chablis or a dry Riesling to cut through the richness. For a traditional French presentation, serve inside a puff pastry 'vol-au-vent' shell.