📝 About This Recipe
A cornerstone of French country cooking, Perdreau aux Choux is a soul-warming braise that elevates the lean, delicate flavor of wild game. This traditional 'plat de ménage' marries tender partridges with buttery Savoy cabbage, salty ventrèche, and savory sausages, all simmered together until their flavors meld into a rich, autumnal masterpiece. It is the definitive taste of the French hunting season, offering a rustic elegance that is both deeply satisfying and impressively sophisticated.
🥗 Ingredients
The Game
- 2 pieces Young Partridges (cleaned, trussed, and at room temperature)
- 2 tablespoons Unsalted Butter (for browning)
- 1 tablespoon Neutral Oil (such as grapeseed)
The Cabbage and Aromatics
- 1 large head Savoy Cabbage (cored and cut into thick wedges)
- 150 grams Slab Bacon or Ventrèche (cut into thick lardons)
- 2 pieces Carrots (peeled and sliced into rounds)
- 1 piece Yellow Onion (studded with 2 cloves)
- 2 cloves Garlic (smashed)
The Braise
- 2 pieces Morteau or Montbéliard Sausage (or any high-quality smoked garlic sausage)
- 500 ml Chicken or Game Stock (high quality or homemade)
- 100 ml Dry White Wine (such as Riesling or Muscadet)
- 1 piece Bouquet Garni (thyme, bay leaf, and parsley stalks tied together)
- to taste Salt and Black Pepper (freshly cracked)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Blanch the cabbage wedges in a large pot of boiling salted water for 5 minutes to soften and remove bitterness. Drain immediately and plunge into ice water; squeeze out as much moisture as possible with your hands.
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2
Season the partridges generously with salt and pepper. In a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat.
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3
Sear the partridges on all sides until they are beautifully golden brown, about 8-10 minutes in total. Remove the birds from the pot and set aside on a plate.
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4
In the same pot, add the bacon lardons and sauté until the fat renders and they become crispy and golden.
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5
Add the sliced carrots and the clove-studded onion to the pot, stirring for 3-4 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften in the bacon fat.
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6
Deglaze the pot with the white wine, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to release all the flavorful browned bits (the fond).
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7
Layer half of the blanched cabbage into the bottom of the Dutch oven. Place the partridges, sausages, and the bouquet garni on top of the cabbage bed.
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8
Cover the birds with the remaining cabbage, effectively 'nesting' the partridges so they stay moist during the braise.
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9
Pour in the stock until it reaches about halfway up the cabbage. Bring to a gentle simmer on the stovetop.
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10
Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to a preheated oven at 160°C (325°F). Braise for 60 to 75 minutes.
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11
Check the partridges; the meat should be tender but not falling off the bone. Remove the birds and sausages from the pot and keep warm.
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12
If the cabbage liquid is too thin, simmer it on the stovetop for 5-10 minutes without a lid to reduce and intensify the flavors.
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13
To serve, carve the partridges in half lengthwise and slice the sausages into thick rounds.
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14
Arrange a generous mound of cabbage and bacon in the center of a warmed platter, place the partridge halves and sausage slices on top, and ladle over the remaining braising juices.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always use Savoy cabbage (the crinkly kind) as it holds its texture much better during long braising than smooth green cabbage. Do not skip the blanching step for the cabbage; it ensures the final dish isn't overly sulfuric or bitter. If you can't find partridge, this recipe works beautifully with pheasant or even high-quality Cornish game hens. Check the seasoning at the very end; the bacon and sausages are salty, so you may not need much additional salt in the sauce. For an extra touch of luxury, stir a tablespoon of cold butter into the sauce just before serving to give it a glossy finish.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a medium-bodied red wine from the Rhône Valley or a rustic Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Serve with a side of buttery boiled potatoes or a smooth parsnip purée to soak up the juices. A dollop of sharp Dijon mustard on the side is essential for the sausages and game meat. Follow this hearty meal with a light green salad tossed in a sharp vinaigrette to cleanse the palate. Finish the evening with a glass of Calvados or Armagnac to complement the earthy flavors of the hunt.