📝 About This Recipe
Hailing from the heart of Burgundy, Époisses is a legendary washed-rind cheese known for its powerful, pungent aroma and its impossibly silky, spoonable interior. This artisan recipe guides you through the delicate process of culturing raw milk and the signature 'Marc de Bourgogne' washing technique that develops its iconic orange hue. It is a labor of love that rewards the patient cheesemaker with a complex, meaty flavor profile and a decadent texture that rivals the finest French creameries.
🥗 Ingredients
The Milk & Cultures
- 2 gallons Whole Cow's Milk (Non-homogenized is essential; raw milk is preferred for authenticity)
- 1/4 teaspoon Mesophilic Starter Culture (MA 11) (Provides the base acidity)
- 1/16 teaspoon Brevibacterium Linens (The 'red smear' bacteria responsible for the orange rind)
- 1/16 teaspoon Geotrichum Candidum (A yeast-like mold that prepares the surface for B. linens)
- 1/2 teaspoon Liquid Animal Rennet (Diluted in 1/4 cup non-chlorinated water)
- 1/2 teaspoon Calcium Chloride (Diluted in 1/4 cup water (omit if using raw milk))
The Brine & Wash Solution
- 2 tablespoons Non-iodized Sea Salt (For dry salting the curds)
- 1/2 cup Marc de Bourgogne (A French pomace brandy; substitute with Grappa if unavailable)
- 1 cup Filtered Water (For the washing brine)
- 1 teaspoon Fine Sea Salt (Added to the wash solution)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Slowly heat the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot or double boiler to 86°F (30°C). Stir gently to ensure even heating and prevent scorching.
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2
Sprinkle the Mesophilic culture, B. linens, and Geotrichum Candidum over the surface of the milk. Let rehydrate for 2 minutes, then stir in using an up-and-down motion for 1 minute. Cover and let ripen for 60 minutes.
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3
Add the diluted Calcium Chloride (if using) and stir. Then, add the diluted Rennet. Stir gently for 1 minute, then 'still' the milk with your ladle to stop the movement. Cover and let sit for 12-16 hours at room temperature (around 68-72°F) until a firm lactic curd forms.
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4
Check for a 'clean break.' The curd should look like shiny yogurt and split cleanly when lifted with a knife. Carefully ladle large, thin slices of curd into perforated Époisses molds (moules) resting on a draining mat.
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5
Allow the curds to drain naturally for 24-48 hours at room temperature. Flip the molds every 6 hours to ensure even drainage and a flat surface on both sides. The cheese will shrink significantly.
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6
Remove the cheeses from the molds. Sprinkle 1/2 tablespoon of sea salt over all surfaces of each wheel. Place them on a clean draining mat in a ripening box (90% humidity) at 55°F (13°C).
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7
During the first week, flip the cheese daily. You will notice a white, velvety coat of Geotrichum developing. This is the foundation for the rind.
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8
Prepare the first wash: Mix 1 cup of water with 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of Marc de Bourgogne. Dip a clean cloth into the solution and gently wipe the entire surface of the cheese.
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9
Repeat the washing process 2-3 times per week for 4-6 weeks. With each subsequent wash, gradually increase the ratio of Marc de Bourgogne to water until the final washes are done with pure brandy.
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10
Monitor the rind color. It should transition from white to a damp straw color, and finally to a deep, sticky orange-red. The aroma will become increasingly pungent and 'yeasty.'
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11
The cheese is ready when the center feels very soft and yielding to the touch. The interior should be almost liquid at room temperature.
💡 Chef's Tips
Temperature control is critical; if the ripening area is too cold, the B. linens won't grow; if too hot, the cheese will melt prematurely. Always use non-chlorinated water for your brine, as chlorine can kill the delicate ripening cultures. If blue mold appears, simply wipe it away with a cloth dipped in a strong salt-and-brandy solution. Ensure the ripening box has some airflow; crack the lid slightly once a day to exchange the air and prevent 'smothering' the cultures. Be patient with the Marc de Bourgogne; adding too much alcohol too early can shock the bacteria and stop the rind development.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Serve at room temperature—remove from the fridge at least 2 hours before eating until the paste is spoonable. Pair with a glass of Sauternes or a bold, earthy Burgundy Pinot Noir to complement the funk. Serve alongside crusty sourdough baguette or walnut bread to provide a structural contrast to the creamy paste. Accompany with dried apricots or fresh figs to balance the intense saltiness and savory notes. For a true French experience, serve in its wooden box to hold the shape as you scoop out the center.