Golden Guyanese Metemgee: The Ultimate Coconut Ground Provision Stew

🌍 Cuisine: Guyanese
🏷️ Category: Main Course
⏱️ Prep: 30 minutes
🍳 Cook: 45-55 minutes
👥 Serves: 6 servings

📝 About This Recipe

Metemgee is a soul-warming Guyanese classic, a thick and hearty 'one-pot' that celebrates the bounty of the earth and sea. This iconic dish features a medley of 'ground provisions' like yams, cassava, and plantains, all simmered to perfection in a rich, turmeric-stained coconut milk broth infused with salted meats and aromatics. It is the quintessential Caribbean comfort food, offering a harmonious balance of sweet, savory, and creamy textures in every spoonful.

🥗 Ingredients

The Proteins

  • 1/2 lb Salted cod or salt beef (boiled to remove excess salt and cubed)
  • 1 lb Fresh firm white fish fillets (like Snapper or Grouper) (cut into large chunks)

The Ground Provisions

  • 1 lb Cassava (Yuca) (peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks)
  • 1 lb Sweet Potato (peeled and cubed)
  • 1 lb Yam (African or Caribbean variety) (peeled and cubed)
  • 1/2 lb Eddoes (peeled and halved)
  • 2 Yellow Plantain (ripe but firm, peeled and sliced into thick rounds)

The Duploo (Dumplings)

  • 1 cup All-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon Sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon Salt
  • 1/3 cup Water (or as needed to form a stiff dough)

The Coconut Broth and Aromatics

  • 4 cups Fresh Coconut Milk (unsweetened)
  • 1 large Onion (finely chopped)
  • 4 cloves Garlic (minced)
  • 3 sprigs Fresh Thyme
  • 1-2 Wiri Wiri Pepper (left whole for flavor, or Scotch Bonnet)
  • 1/2 teaspoon Turmeric powder (for that signature golden color)

👨‍🍳 Instructions

  1. 1

    Begin by prepping your salted meat. If using salt beef or cod, boil it in fresh water for 15-20 minutes to remove excess salt, then drain and set aside.

  2. 2

    In a large, heavy-bottomed pot (a Dutch oven is perfect), add the coconut milk, chopped onions, minced garlic, thyme sprigs, and turmeric.

  3. 3

    Bring the coconut milk mixture to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Allow it to bubble for about 5 minutes until the aromatics soften and the milk begins to slightly thicken.

  4. 4

    Carefully add the 'hard' provisions first: the cassava and the yam. These take the longest to cook. Ensure they are mostly submerged in the liquid.

  5. 5

    Reduce the heat to medium, cover the pot, and let it simmer for 10-12 minutes.

  6. 6

    While the pot simmers, prepare the 'duploo' (dumplings). In a small bowl, mix the flour, sugar, salt, and water. Knead into a stiff dough and roll into small logs or 'fingers'.

  7. 7

    Add the sweet potatoes, eddoes, and the prepared salted meat to the pot. Stir gently to avoid breaking the softening cassava.

  8. 8

    Place the ripe plantain slices on top of the other vegetables. The sweetness of the plantain will seep into the broth.

  9. 9

    Gently place the duploo (dumplings) on top of the provisions. Do not stir yet; let them steam on the surface.

  10. 10

    Nestle the whole Wiri Wiri or Scotch Bonnet pepper into the liquid. Be careful not to burst it if you prefer a milder heat.

  11. 11

    Finally, lay the fresh fish chunks on the very top. Cover the pot tightly and simmer for another 12-15 minutes.

  12. 12

    Check the provisions with a fork; they should be tender but not disintegrating. The coconut milk should have reduced into a thick, custard-like sauce (the 'oil' may begin to separate slightly, which is a sign of authenticity).

  13. 13

    Taste the sauce. Adjust salt only if necessary, as the salted meat usually provides enough. Remove the whole pepper and thyme sprigs before serving.

💡 Chef's Tips

Use fresh coconut milk if possible for the most authentic, creamy flavor; canned will work but lacks the natural oils. Don't over-stir the pot once the fish and dumplings are added, or you'll end up with a mushy texture. Ensure your plantains are 'half-ripe' (yellow with a few black spots) so they provide sweetness without dissolving. If the sauce is too thin, remove the lid for the last 5 minutes of cooking to allow it to reduce and thicken. Always peel cassava deeply to remove both the brown skin and the thick pinkish-white inner layer.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

Serve hot in deep bowls, ensuring everyone gets a piece of each provision and a dumpling. Pair with a cold glass of Guyanese Mauby or Ginger Beer to cut through the richness of the coconut. A side of steamed white rice can be served, though the provisions usually provide enough starch. Top with a squeeze of fresh lime juice just before eating to brighten the heavy flavors. Enjoy as a traditional Sunday lunch, the most common time for this labor-of-love dish.