Rustic Polenta e Osei: Traditional Venetian Hunters' Polenta with Skewered Small Birds

🌍 Cuisine: Italian
🏷️ Category: Main Course
⏱️ Prep: 30 minutes
🍳 Cook: 1 hour 15 minutes
👥 Serves: 4 servings

📝 About This Recipe

A cornerstone of Northern Italian heritage, specifically from the Veneto and Lombardy regions, this savory 'Polenta e Osei' is a soul-warming masterpiece. Unlike the sweet cake version found in Bergamo, this authentic savory preparation features creamy, stone-ground polenta topped with 'osei' (small birds) slow-cooked with sage and pancetta. It is a dish that captures the essence of the Italian autumn harvest and the ancient traditions of the alpine foothills.

🥗 Ingredients

The Osei (Birds and Skewers)

  • 8 pieces Quails (cleaned, or use high-quality squab/small game birds)
  • 8 slices Pancetta (thick-cut, high quality)
  • 16 leaves Fresh Sage (whole, large leaves)
  • 4 links Italian Pork Sausage (cut into 2-inch chunks)

The Braise

  • 4 tablespoons Unsalted Butter (divided)
  • 2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 1/2 cup Dry White Wine (such as Pinot Grigio or Soave)
  • 1 cup Chicken or Game Stock (warm)
  • to taste Salt and Black Pepper (freshly cracked pepper)

The Polenta

  • 1.5 cups Yellow Cornmeal (coarse, stone-ground bramata style)
  • 6 cups Water
  • 1 tablespoon Kosher Salt
  • 1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano (freshly grated)

👨‍🍳 Instructions

  1. 1

    Prepare the birds by rinsing them and patting them very dry with paper towels. Season the cavities of the quails with a pinch of salt and pepper.

  2. 2

    Assemble the skewers (the 'osei'): On a wooden or metal skewer, thread a piece of sausage, followed by a sage leaf, then a quail wrapped in a slice of pancetta, another sage leaf, and ending with another piece of sausage.

  3. 3

    In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or deep skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat.

  4. 4

    Sear the skewers in the hot fat, turning carefully, until the pancetta is crisp and the quails are golden brown on all sides (about 8-10 minutes).

  5. 5

    Deglaze the pan by pouring in the white wine, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to release the flavorful browned bits (fond).

  6. 6

    Once the wine has reduced by half, add the warm stock. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover the pan partially, and cook for 35-40 minutes until the quails are tender.

  7. 7

    While the birds are braising, start the polenta. Bring 6 cups of water to a rolling boil in a heavy copper pot (paiolo) or a large saucepan and add the salt.

  8. 8

    Slowly rain the cornmeal into the boiling water in a thin stream, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps from forming.

  9. 9

    Reduce the heat to low. Switch to a long-handled wooden spoon and stir the polenta every few minutes. Let it cook for at least 45-50 minutes until it pulls away from the sides of the pot.

  10. 10

    Check the quails; if the sauce is too thin, remove the lid for the last 10 minutes of cooking to thicken it into a rich gravy.

  11. 11

    Finish the polenta by stirring in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano until glossy and smooth.

  12. 12

    To serve, pour a generous mound of soft polenta onto each plate or a large wooden board. Create a small well in the center.

  13. 13

    Place the skewers (or individual birds and sausages) on top of the polenta and drizzle generously with the pan juices and crispy sage.

💡 Chef's Tips

Always use stone-ground cornmeal for the best texture; instant polenta lacks the necessary depth of flavor. If you cannot find quail, Cornish game hens cut into quarters make an excellent substitute. Keep the stock warm before adding it to the quails to ensure the cooking temperature doesn't drop suddenly. For the smoothest polenta, don't be afraid to add a splash of hot water if it becomes too thick before the cornmeal is fully hydrated. Rest the birds for 5 minutes after cooking to ensure the meat stays succulent and juicy.

🍽️ Serving Suggestions

Pair with a robust red wine from the region, such as a Valpolicella Ripasso or a Nebbiolo. Serve with a side of sautéed bitter greens like rapini or radicchio to balance the richness. A bowl of pickled 'giardiniera' vegetables provides a bright acidity that cuts through the fat of the pancetta. Follow the meal with a simple wedge of Taleggio cheese and honey for a truly Lombardian experience.