📝 About This Recipe
A masterpiece of French Haute Cuisine, 'en Crapaudine' refers to the technique of butterflying the squab to resemble a toad, ensuring an even, succulent char across the skin while maintaining a blushing, tender interior. This dish celebrates the rich, gamey elegance of young pigeon, elevated by a glossy red wine reduction and the smoky kiss of a cast-iron grill. It is a sophisticated display of butchery and heat control that brings the rustic soul of the French countryside to the refined dining table.
🥗 Ingredients
The Squab
- 2 pieces Whole Squab (Pigeon) (approx. 450g each, head and feet removed, liver and heart reserved)
- 50 grams Unsalted Butter (clarified for high-heat searing)
- 1 teaspoon Fleur de Sel (for finishing)
- 1/2 teaspoon Black Peppercorns (mignonette style, toasted and crushed)
The Marinade & Aromatics
- 3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil (high quality)
- 4 sprigs Fresh Thyme (leaves only)
- 2 cloves Garlic (crushed but kept whole)
- 3 pieces Juniper Berries (lightly bruised)
Jus Corsé (Red Wine Reduction)
- 100 grams Squab Trimmings (carcass bits and wing tips)
- 2 pieces Shallots (finely minced)
- 150 ml Dry Red Wine (preferably a Pinot Noir or Syrah)
- 250 ml Veal or Dark Poultry Stock (highly reduced/gelatinous)
- 15 grams Cold Butter (cubed for mounting)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Begin by spatchcocking the squab: Place the bird breast-side down. Using sharp kitchen shears, cut along both sides of the backbone to remove it. Reserve the backbone for the sauce.
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2
Flip the bird over and press firmly on the breastbone until you hear a crack. The bird should now lie completely flat. This is the 'Crapaudine' shape.
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3
Tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders and make a small incision in the skin near the thighs to tuck the drumsticks through, ensuring the bird stays flat during cooking.
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4
Whisk together the olive oil, thyme, crushed garlic, and bruised juniper berries. Rub this marinade all over the squab and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
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5
Prepare the sauce: In a small saucepan, brown the reserved backbones and wing tips in a drop of oil until deeply caramelized. Add the minced shallots and cook until translucent.
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6
Deglaze the pan with red wine, scraping the bottom to release the fond. Reduce the liquid by two-thirds until it reaches a syrupy consistency.
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7
Add the stock and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh chinois into a clean pan. Keep warm over low heat.
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8
Heat a heavy cast-iron grill pan or a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Wipe the excess marinade off the squab and season generously with salt.
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9
Add clarified butter to the pan. Place the squab skin-side down. Place a heavy weight (like a foil-wrapped brick or another heavy pan) on top of the birds to ensure maximum skin contact.
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10
Grill for 4-5 minutes on the skin side until the skin is mahogany brown and crispy. Flip the birds over and cook for another 3-4 minutes.
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11
Check for doneness: Squab is best served medium-rare to medium (internal temperature of 52°C/125°F). Remove from the pan and let rest on a warm plate for at least 5-8 minutes.
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12
Finish the sauce: Bring the strained reduction to a simmer. Whisk in the cold butter cubes one by one (monter au beurre) until the sauce is glossy and coats the back of a spoon. Season with salt and the crushed peppercorns.
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13
To serve, place the squab in the center of a warmed plate. Drizzle the glossy jus over the legs, leaving the crispy breast skin exposed. Garnish with a fresh sprig of thyme.
💡 Chef's Tips
Always allow the squab to come to room temperature before grilling to ensure even cooking. Do not overcook; squab becomes metallic and tough if cooked past medium. Use a weight during the initial searing phase to achieve that signature 'Crapaudine' golden-brown skin. Resting the meat is non-negotiable; it allows the juices to redistribute for a tender bite. If you can find it, use a 'Pigeon de Bresse' for the ultimate culinary experience.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a glass of aged Gevrey-Chambertin or a bold Northern Rhône Syrah. Serve alongside a silky parsnip purée or butter-glazed heirloom carrots. A side of wild mushrooms sautéed with shallots and parsley complements the gamey notes perfectly. For a classic touch, serve with a small croûton topped with a mousse made from the reserved squab livers.