📝 About This Recipe
A quintessential masterpiece of Japanese summer haute cuisine, this clear soup features the prized Daggertooth Pike Conger (Hamo) prepared with the legendary 'Hone-kiri' bone-cutting technique. The broth is a crystalline Ichiban Dashi, designed to highlight the delicate, marshmallow-like texture of the blanched fish and the refreshing citrus notes of sudachi. It is a dish that embodies the elegance of Kyoto, offering a cooling yet deeply savory experience that celebrates the peak of the season.
🥗 Ingredients
The Hamo (Pike Conger)
- 400 grams Fresh Hamo Fillet (Skin-on, extremely fresh, ideally pre-processed with hone-kiri bone-cutting)
- 3 tablespoons Kuzu-ko (Arrowroot Starch) (Finely powdered for dusting)
- 1 pinch Sea Salt (For seasoning the fish)
Ichiban Dashi (The Clear Broth)
- 1200 ml Soft Mineral Water (High quality water is essential for clarity)
- 20 grams Kombu (Dried Kelp) (Ma-kombu or Rishiri-kombu preferred; wiped with a damp cloth)
- 30 grams Katsuobushi (Bonito Flakes) (High-quality, thick-shaved 'Hongarebushi' if available)
- 1 teaspoon Usukuchi (Light Soy Sauce) (Used for seasoning without darkening the broth)
- 1 tablespoon Sake (High-quality drinking sake)
- 1/2 teaspoon Sea Salt (Adjust to taste)
Garnish and Aromatics
- 40 grams Junsai (Water Shield) (Fresh or bottled in brine, rinsed)
- 1 piece Sudachi Citrus (Sliced into paper-thin rounds)
- 1 teaspoon Umeboshi Paste (Top-quality pickled plum, pureed)
- 4 sprigs Shiso Flowers (Optional, for a floral finish)
👨🍳 Instructions
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1
Prepare the Ichiban Dashi: Place the water and kombu in a medium pot. Let it soak for at least 30 minutes to extract the base umami.
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2
Slowly heat the pot over medium-low heat. Just before the water reaches a boil (look for small bubbles at the edge), remove the kombu to prevent bitterness and sliminess.
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3
Bring the water to a brief boil, then add a splash of cold water to stabilize the temperature. Add the katsuobushi flakes all at once. Let it simmer for only 30 seconds, then turn off the heat.
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4
Allow the katsuobushi to sink to the bottom (about 2 minutes). Strain through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a bleached cotton cloth or paper towel. Do not squeeze the flakes; let it drip naturally for a crystal-clear broth.
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5
Season the dashi with sake, usukuchi soy sauce, and salt. The flavor should be elegant and light. Keep warm over the lowest possible heat.
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6
Prepare the Hamo: If not already done, perform 'Hone-kiri' by making vertical cuts through the tiny bones but not the skin, spaced 1-2mm apart. Cut the fillet into 4cm bite-sized pieces.
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7
Lightly dust the flesh side of the Hamo with kuzu-ko (arrowroot starch). Shake off any excess; you want a microscopic coating that will create a silky 'shimmer' when cooked.
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8
Bring a separate pot of water to a gentle simmer. Carefully drop the Hamo pieces in. The fish will curl and bloom like a white chrysanthemum flower (Hamo-otoshi).
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9
Poach for about 60-90 seconds until the flesh is opaque and tender. Immediately transfer to an ice-water bath for 10 seconds to firm the texture, then drain on a clean towel.
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10
Briefly blanch the junsai in boiling water for 10 seconds, then shock in ice water to maintain its vibrant green color and gelatinous coating.
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11
Warm your serving bowls (Wan-mori) with hot water, then wipe them dry. This ensures the soup stays hot.
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12
Place one piece of Hamo in the center of each bowl. Arrange a small cluster of junsai next to it.
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13
Carefully pour the hot dashi down the side of the bowl so as not to disturb the arrangement, until the fish is halfway submerged.
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14
Place a tiny dot of umeboshi paste on top of the Hamo and float a thin slice of sudachi on the surface. Add shiso flowers if using.
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15
Cover with the lid immediately and serve. The aroma trapped under the lid is a vital part of the experience.
💡 Chef's Tips
The 'Hone-kiri' technique is difficult; if you aren't trained, ask a Japanese fishmonger to do it, as the fish has over 1,000 tiny bones. Use the highest quality soft water available (like Volvic or filtered water) as hard water prevents the kombu from releasing its full flavor. Never boil the dashi once the katsuobushi is added, or the broth will become cloudy and fishy. Kuzu-ko is superior to cornstarch as it creates a much more delicate, translucent 'veil' over the fish that melts in the mouth. Serve the soup at exactly 80°C (175°F) for the perfect balance of aroma and drinkability.
🍽️ Serving Suggestions
Pair with a chilled, dry Junmai Ginjo sake to complement the clean umami of the dashi. Serve as the 'Owan' (soup) course in a traditional multi-course Kaiseki dinner. Follow this dish with a light sashimi course of sea bream or squid. Accompany with a side of lightly pickled cucumber and ginger to cleanse the palate. Present in traditional black and gold lacquerware bowls to make the white Hamo 'pop' visually.